The QMK firmware#Third EntryThe worst and most unclear part I’ve countered.The only thing guide has is just link to documentation, which was so unclear.Because document had so many thing toolbox, cli, msys, something for advanced users, I didn’t know even where to start.I tried to read, I got confused and searched for the youtube. Saw some people, but they wrote to some keyboard on different microcontroller, and to be honest they were also unclear.So, again came to documentation tried to follow getting started and setup parts, but still couldn’t get sense of it. So, I opened github of the example orpheusPAD, and get some sense of what to write. Still I saw only result not the way how to start. So, I decided to use AI. It actually helped a lot, I installed the QMK MSYS and setted up and created new keyboard there.Then, again opened documentation and went to section using QMK part.Get basic sense and skimmed through the keycodes out there. My laptop doesnt have the numbers section in the right side, and I thought it will be handy, especially when I write with my native language. Because when I do that the numbers are top are not printing numbers but lnaguage specific letters, So i can write button. so it was easy, just KC_1-9,Encoder and LEDs I am not sure if this correct. I didnt want to just copy from github of example, and just tried to write how it should work after skimming the documentation. Encoder will change volume and led will be always red. and Oled display will shows if caps lock pressed, my laptop doesnt have indicator and sometimes it is disturbing.as i dont have macropad in hand right now, I have no motivation to experiment, as I can’t even check.But when I actually get it I am definitely improve QMK.1. I want to exact LED light when button is pressed. 2. Also, same when encoder gets rotated they leds under it should glow.3. Finally, I want it glow when caps lock state changes

second entry

This entry is for 3d enclosure part. Actually, it was hard. very hard.I chose onShape because I have previously worked with it. But, I don’t know is it my laptop getting laggy , so that even browser is getting slow, so it was high cortisol task :(First I followed guide made enclosure little bit bigger than pcb to keep spacefor printer inaccuracy 4 mm.My pcb is 8 and 10cm, so as guide told it must be at max 20x10x10. So I had to make sure the 8cm part shouldn’t be more than 10. Also for clear visibility and test, I imported the pcb with all 3d models to onShape from KiCad, I suppose it was amazing desicion. It indeed helped when designing the typeC port and knob for encoder.I used some website also showed in the guide to genereate dxf file for me, so I extruded it from there. Should have been easiest part, but at first I messed up with location of switches itself so Had to calibrate offset.The knob part was too easy actually. Just cylynder with hole for encoder. It was boring, so I searched for way to add texture on knob. And learned about knurling. That was the interesting part, and most laggy part. my bad internet connection + laggy laptop made it the longest part, when it tried to render 36 element consisting sweep in cylinder in both direction.The display part and little holes for indicators was easy to do, I aligned with pcb model actually I suppose it was good.I wanted to add a lot of text actually. But for each text I had to make one sketch, and it was too much time. Not sure why that happened, but i added only few texts. and mention hack club of course :)That is how I made that 3d enclosure part.

First EntryI started from Idea, at first I wanted to make interesting design thought it will be unique to me, and I can even play games as it includes 2 encoders, 9 buttons, display and LEDs. I planned to use LEDs not only behind keyboard, but as indicator of level and so on, so I placed several near display.But when I started making schematics, I found that I cant fit all this together as there only 11 pins. Also, I learned about button matrix, interesting actually. After little search I found actually there are ways to include the encoder itself as an switch in button matrix, but I also found that it might cause problems. Eventually, I decided to remove second encoder, and changed design.This design is more similar to ones you find in gallery.But the main uniqueness was in 2 buttons near display and indicators all over the place.I tried that and made button matrix of 4columns and 3 rows. but again found out that I can not add column 4 or I should remove LEDs. Column 4 was responsible for 2 switches near display and encoder switch. Though I really wanted to add encoder switch, I had to make choice. My choice was to leave LEDs.Just for reminder Encoder needs 3 pins, (when switch used for matrix)Leds only 1Switch matrix 3x3 needs 6 pinsDisplay needs 2.I didnt use encoder switch so it took only 2. Finally 2 +1+6+2=11 all pins are used.So final design looked like this Then I assigned footprints, mostly from Kicad builtin library and from care package.The resources told to use 4pin header for oled, but I used actualy footprint so I won’t mess up with sizes.The pcb routing actually was hardest tasks. I had so many components had to fit in 80*100mm.As expected from me now, I am not pro and my main task was to connect, even if not perfectly.Though I tried to shorten routes, don’t place them too close to each other, there are long routes that are close to each other.I multiple times doubted my decision of choosing LEDs. They were all over the place, and they stood behing longest routes. Nevertheless, I could finish it. Finally, I added 3D model to each footprint, mostly searched from grabCAD. I Wanted to see my PCB in 3d.I didn’t knew how to update footprint 3d models, I though making it manually but when I saw 20 leds, I searched for better way , and actually found that there were actually function for that.Finally, my pcb