clk0

i tried really hard to fit it all together

i put it together, then something would disconnect, then i would it put it back together, then it would disconnect again

ill just redesign it to be taller

printer not working?

i tried to fix the wifi settings 💀

still didn’t work

ill just use SD card

redesign:

ok hopefully ts works

IT WORKED OMG OMG OMG

im leaving for open sauce tomorrow so this was done right when I needed it to be

LETS GO

ok this is going to be hard to build

I LAPSEd me soldering the 7-segment display (took 30 min)

i printed out the bottom part

realized the top part isn’t compatible with bottom part

need to redesign

didn’t have USB-C hole either

redesigned!

asked for help on Slack

got that help with print settings

ok redesigned:

printed it

the hole was too small

the supports were impossible to remove

will reprint

going to work on the firmware

somebody told me that the M2 wouldn’t work

ok this is the firmware: https://pastebin.com/s5BTVMHb

pretty simple

going to make it better when i get parts

redesigned the wiring diagram cause I’m going to have batteries!

the display uses M2.5 holes 😭

time to fix

fixed

going to work on README

created README

updated files

okay i learned that expedited shipping is allowed for JLCPCB

so im designing a PCB

this is also due to the fact that idk how to wire it without a PCB

will make it a lot cleaner also!

schematic done

time to assign footprints

assigned them!

problem: stemma qt is very small and hard to solder it seems like

ok this PCB is wayyyy too simple to need a PCB at all

ill figure out how standoffs work

watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHIrTtLCnEo

that was so easy

found these bumpers: https://www.adafruit.com/product/550

will add them

actually no point in adding to CAD

made this https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HJi_SoZmRUPXIg3fWTzNNd4LjoeZRIxf5KhnIGp8wuw/edit?usp=sharing!

comes out to $54.36 at a quantity of 1

hardware is so expensive

ok i just need to make firmware

i think this project is almost ready to ship!

added these holes:

i was away from my house for a couple of days

time to get back on this project

added tolerances

added a border!

it looks kinda weird ngl

added keycaps and colors! looks very cool

made it assembleable

remade the assembly

ill make a render cause why not

technically i am done with the CAD

but idk if i want to make a PCB

cause it needs to arrive in time

ok made that

apparently M1 screws don’t work with 3d printed stuff

so ill need M2

made it M2

ok im working super slow now idk why

new session at night

i added chamfer to add M3 holes!

the only major thing left other than firmware is how im going to assemble this

i dont want to make a PCB cause i want it to be done in time

PCB also not required?

i could use a breadboard

ok ill figure this out tmrw

will create wiring diagram!

kinda basic because wiring diagram is kinda basic

rebranding this to be a chess clock again

planning to use 8-segment clock displays like this one:

thats what these clocks use:

going to also use mx switches cause hey are used in:

time to import all CAD models

ah i can only find 1.2” not 0.56”

i imported the mx switch

time to decide what MCU

i think ill use RP2040-zero

wait nvm its hard to mount?

i might use pico just because its easier to mount

imported the pico!

apparently i need beveled face to make it have good viewing angles

watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eApyyNPppaY

starting to look like a chess clock!

did some more research on how to mount a mx switch

i need a 14x14mm cutout with 1.5mm plate size

looks great!

ill add pico mounting now

okay turns out every OLED is different

so ig ill have to redo some dimensions

also i might make it bigger

ok found models for the 0.56 i2c 7-segment display!

going to use that because its better

using this image

annoying i need to covnert to mm

voila!

time to add screen cutout

looks like a chess clock

will later figure out how to assemble

time for The Great Reset

im starting over designs

i want to rival the industry standard cubing timer

browsing [link] for inspo + ideas

bro no way there is an AI speedcubing timer; this is wild

ok im thinking to use capacitve touch pad instead of switches to not make this a hackpad

watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTMsbL0eH_M to learn

that video wasn’t helpful; watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42jUcqwKIw8

that vid didn’t have much so watching this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWR9Q_pTagw

ok capacitve touch is very hard to implement in such a large area such as a palm

lots of chance for missed calls

did some research and a grand total of 0 people have made an open source cubing timer

soooo this is the first! thats kind of cool

okay i might use this type of design with infared/distance sensors on each side to determine

mx switches aren’t good bc they are designed for fingers, not hands

ok this is a hard project

wait i found [https://github.com/amadensor/cube-timer/tree/main/pcb/cube_timer]

ok mine is the first PCB + case; the project is just an ESP32 on a breadboard

going to read https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/40001946A.pdf

ok idk if this is possible even

okay i tried a THIRD cable and it STILL DOESN’T WORK

I need to buy another cable later

I’ll work on PCB

finished w schematic bc its super ez

i want to use 1.3” OLED cause its bigger so easier to see

downloaded the footprint + schematic from SNAPEDA

updated schematic

idk where to put MCU

if I put it under then OLED pins would hit the MCU

ok someone told me I can put it under

found 3D model of OLED in GrabCAD and imported it

downloaded Xiao RP2040 model from GrabCAD and imported it

routed everything

was going to move the mounting holes but decided not to

ONSHAPE time!

nvm, i wanted to change it just to be safe

rounded the corners and routed! now time for CAD

added holes + the rectangle itself

tried to add top plate but i think its better to just have backplate

printed the PCB IRL!

going to print the backplate to get a feel on what this is going to be like

prined backplate out; pretty good fit!

thought of this project a long time ago

i wanted to build an open source chess clock

then I thought, why make the chess clock also work as a rubiks cube timer?

thats when this idea popped in my head

going to make this basic and cheap, so a 4 point project

start off w schematic

added xiao from https://hackpad.hackclub.com/resources

going to be making the following thing:

changing MCU to ESP32C3 bc i can create web app for chess clock!

using low-profile switches to potentially make this folding

finished schematic

assigned footprints

looked at 0.96” OLED on my desk and realized two numbers would be too small on that

was thinking about 2 OLEDs but the Xiao has 1 i2c bus only

guess we are switching to Pi Pico

choc v2 switches have same travel distance but 4mm lower height than gateron

did some research; choosing kalih PG1350

time to route

ez routing

had them flipped; had to route again

added 3d models!

ok im not going to make it round so its easier to CAD

mounting holes took forever for some reason but I got it!

created logo

tried to add texture but it didn’t end up working

ok i just realized the way i envisioned it is completely wrong

i think i’ll switch this to a cubing timer cause this is the proper thing for that