More Electrical Nonsense and Bed

I spent a bit too long worrying about how this machine will look (aesthetically) and decided it would mainly look better, but also use less wire and be easier to assemble, if I mounted all the electronics below the bed.

I was also thinking a lot how my bed should work. While it’s not the most common option, a lot of aluminum cutting mills do use an MDF spoil board, which lets me also cut wood and polycarbonate in addition to metal. Only issue is it makes mounting/clamping the stock harder. I have a few options (tape, toe clamps, T nuts) but the best option would be embedding T slots into the MDF. Honestly though, I should be able to add that later on after I build the machine so I won’t worry about it right now. Mainly, my new idea moves the mounting structure to leave room for the electronics below and also fixes an issue with the Z range I had on MK1.

For the electronics, I spent a lot of time looking at Voron machines (specifically the Trident R2 and the Zero). I spent some time making an new fully detailed wiring diagram which is also how the parts will be arranged physically. Green lines are DIN rails which everything is mounted to. For the cabling ducts, I’ll be using some 3D printed ones used on Voron mods. Fans, ports, and switches will be mounted on 3D printed mesh plates just like a Voron.